Wine Pilot

Ray Jordan

One of the great grenache. Comes from a high-altitude vineyard planted in 1946 into deep sandy soils. There were 50% whole berries, used with the wild yeast ferment in open fermenters with a longer maceration period. Matured in a mix of Austrian and French oak foudres, puncheons and ceramic eggs. Captures the sweet succulence of the vintage with high end perfumes a feature. Medium bodied but extraordinarily rich and complex with layers of flavours building a powerful and very long palate profile. Great wine.

James Halliday Wine Companion

Marcus Ellis

High Sands is always a landmark wine, a site-reflective icon of peerless husbandry and elaboration, but it can be imposing, needing time and reflection. This is different, though, finely tuned, lucid, silky and sophisticated, and feeling even more expressive of place. A great, cool vintage, yes, with both depth and levity, but Pete Fraser’s quarter turns of the screw are also palpable. Fruits are red and black, ripe but with some tart wild tension, dusted in heady baharat spicing, the heartbeat of old-vine power pulsing insistently within. Flavour descriptors feel ineffectual, though. It’s the sheer graceful power of the thing that’s so beguiling, as it noiselessly swoops in, catching you in the updraft of its immense wingspan. By any measure, this is a great wine.

Robert Parker

Erin Larkin

The 2021 High Sands Grenache leads with spicy oak and juicy, salty fruit. It has a salted humbug candy nature about it, alongside blonde tobacco and green tea, graphite and blood, Boscobel rose and caper brine. The wine is both lush and lean, defined by its score of very fine, profuse, chewy tannins. The discussion of fermentation/maturation vessels in Grenache is rife, with many astute palates gravitating toward egg or amphora for their purity and unfettered expression within the wines. I am less dogmatic and more inclined to swing as a weather vane does in high wind, toward cuvées that I feel express the place, regardless of their vessels. The place in this case is McLaren Vale, specifically the old High Sands bush vine block, planted in 1946. While the oak is evident in this wine, it softens the fruit and texturally creates what I perceive to be a more subtle texture and nuance within the wine. 2021 was a beautiful season in McLaren Vale, and it shows in this superb wine. This is an excellent wine, with a significant price hike this year. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.